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Justin’s Salt Bread, a new bakery in New York City, serves only one food item. Its namesake pastry is a golden-brown horn, glossy-topped and glittered with salt. It tears apart to expose not the honeycomb interior of the ideal croissant, but wisps of bread around what some call salt bread’s signature “butter hole” — the result of wrapping enriched dough around a butter block, which effectively fries the base as it bakes.
Long a Japanese bakery mainstay under the name shio pan, salt bread has more recently swept Korean cafés under names such as sogeum-ppang. Now, the trend has crossed the Pacific: from Los Angeles to New York, café menus are being reorganized around it, and dedicated single-item bakeries are opening in its wake.
Eater’s reporting traces the pastry’s modern rise through both Japanese and Korean bakery cultures, examines why its butter-forward crumb travels so well on social media, and — through interviews with U.S. bakers now serving it — asks whether the American bakery counter is about to be reshaped once again.
· Link: eater.com
